The author at the conference. All photos provided by the author.
In late June, I attended the biennial conference of the Historical Association of South Africa at Rhodes University in Makhanda (formerly Grahamstown), South Africa. It coincided with the country’s National Arts Festival, which Wikipedia claims is “one of the largest performing arts festivals in the world by visitor numbers.” Enthralled by this scheduling, I booked an extra day in Makhanda to partake in the festivities.
I did my best to initially focus on networking with the approximately 100 scholars who convened over three days under the rather forward-looking theme of “New Turns, Fresh Directions and Alternative Avenues.” Presentations were divided into several categories, including: Apartheid Studies (Cold War-era South African history), Colonial Studies (mostly 18th and 19th century South African history), Identity and Queer Studies, and Zimbabwean Studies.1
Historical Association of South Africa President Karen Harris’ conference address.
Professor Karen Harris (University of Pretoria), head of the association, gave a stirring presidential address where she called on attendees to “keep the history flag flying.” She lamented the poor state of South Africa’s education system at all levels – a result of both historic racial injustices and current economic challenges. More encouragingly, she speculated that the rise of artificial intelligence (AI) would make the soft skills of historians more valuable. I was intrigued by Professor Harris’ surmise that AI might render some technical expertise redundant, but increase the need for the critical thinking skills that historians regularly hone as part of their craft.
Beyond the usual addresses and conference papers, attendees were treated to special conference delights. An evening art exhibition reception marking the 1899–1902 Anglo-Boer War capped the first day. A gala dinner on the second night featured local wine and melt-in-your-mouth oxtail, a relatively high-end traditional meat dish. All registrants received the obligatory conference tote, but this one was much more beautifully embroidered than the typical issue.
Now that’s a good conference tote.
I escaped Rhodes each afternoon of the conference, first visiting a cavernous monument 2 commemorating a cohort of 19th century British immigrants, then the Albany Museum, a natural history institution adjacent to the campus. On the third afternoon, two colleagues and I ventured to Port Alfred, the nearest coastal town, some 40 miles away. Enjoying a late lunch of seafood pasta, I witnessed majestic sand dunes and the confluence of the Kowie River and the Indian Ocean. I regret that time constraints prevented us from stopping at the Pig & Whistle, South Africa’s oldest continuously operating pub.
The Kowie River (foreground) and the Indian Ocean (background).
On my final day in Makhanda, I finally explored the arts festival. The small town did not feel overwhelmed by the event, perhaps the exceptionally wet and chilly weather kept folks away. I attended three shows, an experience which illuminated the nation’s continuing struggle to overcome the legacy of segregation.
Festival playbills.
Only one of them (also the most poorly attended), a two-character drama about a South African facing a vehicular manslaughter charge in Botswana, attracted a racially-integrated audience (myself excluded). Shadrack, which energetically conveyed the turmoil of township youth and the legacy of Apartheid, was my favorite, although most of it was in Xhosa, a language I could scarcely grasp. Almost all the attendees were Black secondary school students in their school jackets. My final show, (held in an auditorium with a massive portrait of Queen Victoria) featured a lone white comedian delineating his embrace of veganism before a large all-white audience. Each show was about one-hour long and cost roughly $5 USD, making it a rather economical day of entertainment.
A Makhanda street scene.
- I am a historian of late colonial Zimbabwe. In particular, I focus on the pan-African and regional influences that shaped the trajectory of Zimbabwe’s liberation struggle (and the resistance against it) from the late 1940s to the late 1970s. Both geographic and historical factors explain the strong Zimbabwean dimension to the conference. Zimbabwe borders South Africa to the north, and many Zimbabwean historians lecture at South African universities. Additionally, Rhodes University itself has significant traditional ties to the neighboring country.
- The Grahamstown Foundation, which oversee the 1820 Settlers’ National Monument, has announced its plans to change the name of the site in order to better fulfill principles of “inclusivity, understanding, reflecting, inspiring, growth and education.” The Monument, re-dedicated by Nelson Mandela in 1996, also functioned as the principal festival box office. I saw no significant exhibitions or material honoring the British migrants. Rather, the emphasis was on promoting an environment in which all the country’s ethnic and racial groups felt at home.
